When my friend Ian had mentioned visiting Sri Lanka, it was shortly after the Easter terrorist bombing. I had hesitations on visiting this island nation for fear that the place had extremists and that it could be dangerous for an American female traveling solo and I also thought it was a majority Muslim country. Which it is not, surprisingly to me it is a Buddhist majority 75% with the balance being Muslim, Christian and Hindu.
My first stop was the main city of Colombo which I found the area I was in unpleasant. I was harassed every time I left the hostel by local men who wanted to tell me about some fake big ceremony at the temple and that wherever I was going was closed, luckily, I did read about that online previously so I didn’t fall for any of their tom foolery. I spent only 1 full day there and quickly departed to Kandy by train.
The train ride was beautiful and a little bumpy on the famous blue line. In Kandy I walked around the lake and saw many animals like turtles, water monitors, a variety of birds and of course fish. I stayed at a large homestay with a lovely lady, however, I was the only visitor for the stay. The house was a short walk from the lake.
I went to the Temple of Buddhas tooth my first full day. They have one of Buddhas teeth housed in a temple with a golden roof. I was in time to see the washing of the tooth and after I went to the museum they have on the site. From the top floor I was about to leave when a local guard asked if I had seen the view, I was perplexed as there was no window or opening from this floor to see outside. He walked me to a corner door that was locked and led me out to this tiny balcony. He said don’t go close to the edge since only kings and monks come up here, my thoughts: my bare feet standing in the same spots the monks and king stood. I can see all the lake including kings island and the queen’s bathhouse as well as the top of the golden temple that houses the tooth. From a distance, I could see the big Buddha statue off in the distance.
The following day I took a long walk to visit the giant Buddha statue at the top of Kandy. The walk took me thru town, thru the bus station and thru the markets. The hustle and bustle of the locals going here and there was chaotic. However, I felt super comfortable walking these streets and easily found the steep winding road that led to the Buddha. He was huge and there are stairs that go almost to the top of his body. The views are stunning, you can see the entire town and lake from the top. Well worth the steep walk and on my way back down I found a group of men painting murals around the lake as part of a Sri Lankan initiative.
The 2nd stop was Ella, this is the most famous blue train ride between Kandy and Ella, with 7 hours of beautiful green views, tea plantations, villages, over 6 waterfalls, bridges and more. The train had food vendors that would walk up and down the isles selling local street food. Of course, I had to taste the delights including the hot spice peanuts. The train ride is long and bumpy but was worth the $3 to go the distance.
Upon my arrival in Ella, my host picked me up in his tuk tuk and took me to the top of the hills to the cottage they built in front of their house. It was adorable with a semi enclosed patio and large room big enough for 4 people. I hiked around while I stayed in Ella trekking thru the tea plantations and woods with super tall trees, I even helped the military carry some poles up the hill to help prevent landslides. The hosts wife cooked me food every day, enough to feed 4 people but I learned this is the traditional dinner and had it at many places during my stays around the country. The host had 2 young girls who came out to say hi every day and a pet dog that became my guard dogs. Ella is cold and I had to use a blanket at night, the spot was peaceful and out of town, a nice area to chill for a few nights.
When I left Ella, I took a shared mini van to get to the coast with my first stop in Mirissa. This ride was an experience with their crazy driving, fast on the curvy roads passing each other left and right, tuk tuks squeezing between the busses and big trucks and horns blowing. The ride down was 4 hours. In Mirissa I stayed at Hangover Hostel across from the most stunning beach. The hostel itself is well situated with a rooftop terraces to watch the sunsets and waves break. Mirissa is a very popular destination and has a nightlife and plenty of places to eat up and down the A2 Coast highway. I could have stayed a week easily, but I needed to go to the next location, so I forced myself to move on to a small beach town called Hiritekiya, that was recommended to me by a surfer I met in Canggu Bali.
On my tuk tuk rides things I noticed. Trees are protected with Buddha shrines that people pray too. The communities are painting murals in plenty of towns I went thru, mostly sea creatures and military soldiers as well as improving the bus stops. A general beautification in progress it seems. Small cemeteries along the small towns can be found by the roadside. Dried fish stands along the coastal road can be smelled before seen. Older thin men walking around shirtless with just the sarong on is a typical sight. Dogs roaming around are friendly. Buddhist stupas dot the landscape. The ocean is beautiful no matter where you choose to stay. The sea is clear and a light green, with white sandy beaches.
Hiriketiya, is where the jungle meets the best surf break. I stayed at Lazy Monkey hostel that is in the jungle but just a 1-minute walk to the beach. The beach is a well-known surf break and is packed, chaotic and entertaining to watch. Novices to experts surf this spot and you can tell the differences as they charge the waves. My stop here was only for 1 night as I had plans to see more of the island and its beaches. This stop was so worth it as the hostel is new run by an Austrian and Sri Lankan couple and has their heart and soul poured into it. I could have easily stayed there much longer just from the vibes and socializing with all the people there.
When traveling so much I use the booking.com app and read many reviews to decide among the many places in each location. The next stop was in Tangalle, after getting frustrated with all the options I chose a place that had zero reviews, it sounded pleasant and I was curious why they didn’t have reviews. My tuk tuk driver had trouble finding it. It was advertised as the Singhari Hotel and Restaurant. But when we arrived it was a house, I was apprehensive, we pulled thru the gate into their yard and no signs, no restaurant. I walked in and the living space downstairs was welcoming with super high ceilings and a fishpond in the corner. I decided to just go with it as it was only for 1 night. I found out I was their first guest. I got to know the family during my 24-hour stay and had a great time just hanging there. I did walk around and see the area and the local’s area beach with all the kids on holiday swimming. After my walk, I decided to order dinner from the hosts and I have to say, the traditional dinner was the best I had the entire visit to Sri Lanka, the same dishes but the 22 year old daughter that cooked the food really knew how to flavor everything. I could no way finish the food as again it could have served 4 people. The mom was even telling me to eat more. I learned the dad is retired, mom is a science educator, daughter is at University and son plays for the National Sri Lankan Cricket team. The night was comfortable, and the family is sweet, I wish them all the best.
I did decide to head back to Hangover Hostel in Mirissa as I had already been solo the first week here and wanted to be around more people. Return to Mirissa was nice, I played in the ocean chasing waves and laying out, eating at several places around town tasting all the local fare. Delicious food here from the roti variety to fried rice and coconut soup. My favorite spot was a little beach shack directly across from the hostel run by an old guy, you can eat on the sand and watch the people around, I even had a pet dog that stayed with me each time under my table.
I knew I had to move on and work my way back towards Colombo as my departure flight was soon approaching. I decided to go to a spot that some surfers had recommended when I was in Hiriketiya. The small town of Madigama is along the same A2 coast highway and this time I booked a small surf stay at Laguna Surfing Stay, it sits across from the famous Lazy Left surf spot. The place is small and totally cute, with thatched rood porch and sundeck upstairs that you can check the surf out, or watch the sunset or even meditate with the waves crashing. Cows roamed the field next door munching away. I told the owner of Laguna that if I had started here I would have stayed longer. A perfect little location and we had a great night drinking and smoking and getting to know eachother. There was a guy from Argentina that had met a Russian gal and was enamered with her and it was the cutest thing to see when he got a text from her. He jumped up and ran around like a schoolgirl, he was super fun to listen to about how this Russian girl is his destiny. We have added each others contacts so I can be updated on this romantic meet cute.
Another 45-minute tuk tuk past Galle to Boossa to stay right on the beach at the backpack beach break hotel and reggae bar. It’s a small place directly on the beach run by some Sri Lankan dreaded Rasta dudes. The vibe is chill, room is clean, bathroom is all concrete, food is good, and it is the least expensive places I have stayed coming in at less than $7 with breakfast included. I told the guys, If I had stopped here first I probably would have never left. It was heaven lounging on the comfy outdoor couches, with the waves spitting distance to the sea crashing onto the shore. And just as lovely watching the rain come down beating the sand down and churning the waves up at night.
I loved 99% of my experience and believe I should have stayed longer. The people are nice, the place is just straight beautiful. The culinary delights are now top 3 of my favorites. I was well beneath my budget spending a total of $842 for my 17 days including my incoming flight from Bali. I took a Tuk Tuk most places I could have saved more by bus. I know when I return I will rent my own Tuk Tuk and follow the coast road around the entire island. Thank you Sri Lanka and all the people I met along the way. PS your food is AMAZING!!!!
I loved this !