It is the people you meet along the way that make the journey. Nepal was all about living a simple life. One of the people I met, Hari, was telling me when he grew up they didn’t have bandaids or ointment, they often used plants and fabric to fix a cut or injury and no toothpaste, that they would use burned charcoal, I said you mean activated charcoal and I told him this past year activated charcoal toothpaste became big in the US and we got a good laugh.
When I arrived I was excited as Nepal has been a place I have wanted to come since I was a kid flipping thru the pages of National Geographic magazine. The colors and faces in the pages was alluring to me. I always dreamed of Nepal but my head always said “will never happen”, “you cant afford that.”” Keep dreaming” I was also nervous, as it was another unfamiliar place and I didn’t know how I would be received. I really didn’t know what to expect, was it safe? was it friendly ? I did not have a plan just an arrival of 2 nights booked in Thamel, Kathmandu. I had researched places that had WiFi, so I can work and had an idea of Kathmandu, Pokhara and Bhaktapur over my 3 week stay.
I arrived early evening, I did my routine of finding an ATM and SIM card. Once I am done with that I meet my driver, Deepok, that the hotel sent. I stayed at a place called Ammas House, for obvious reasons. The drive is insane, its about 20-30 minutes from the airport and complete madness. I thought Thailand and Bali had crazy driving. Woah get ready for video game level driving, cows in the middle of the road included. It was both intimidating and exhilarating at the same time. When we arrived it looked like an alley way but the driver said here we are, I don’t see any women, I am wondering if I made the right choice. When I check in I am told this is a family hotel. I had no idea the luck I am receiving by being at this place. Not only was it my home base the 3 weeks, when I wasn’t elsewhere, but the staff are super nice. Deepok was the young driver that would end up being my personal driver almost my entire stay. Kishor Thapa is the hotel owner whose sister runs the hotel I stayed at in Pokhara. The only girl in the mix is a young woman named Rupa, who attends university and would come to work right after school sometimes still in her uniform.
And Krishna Gauli, a young man who runs a tour company, pretty much whatever you want to do in Nepal, he will set up. This is exactly what I need, after spending a month with Sabrena, who planned our entire month out, I wanted to do some activities and visit the National Park, I learned was there. Krishna set up a fantastic itinerary for me, it was grueling, exciting, educational, fantastic, tiring and really amazing. He didn’t just sell me a package, he displayed interest in who I am and spent time out of his super busy schedule (runs a non profit, was under construction of a new restaurant, which is now open, and runs the tour company) He took me up to the sunset at Monkey Temple on his little scooter that could barely make it up the hills with us both on it which made me laugh harder. He walked me thru Patan Durbar Square and told me all about the history of the places, we talked about the 60s and 70s when Americans like Jimi Hendrix and even my uncle Juan visited, chatted about the earthquake as we went thru out the area and looked at many temples and damaged buildings being held up with stilts.
On one of my day trips around town with the driver Deepok, I was dropped of at a few places to do some sight seeing on my own. First at Pajan Valley Square the old Kings Palace first, the square is being renovated since the earthquake destroyed so much of it, I saw some Hindu ceremony outside and met a sweet old man that invited me to sit next to him. Next stop, the Giant Stupa, here I meet a young boy named Santosh, he liked my tattoos and we started to chat, we chatted an hour or so as we walked around the Stupa, his english was remarkable and we got to know one another, I wished I could take him with me and adopt this kid. When it was time to go I stopped and got us a couple of Apple Lassi’s, he even came out to the street and waited with me till the driver Deepok showed up. My last stop was at the Pashupatinath Temple, however, I did not know where Deepok dropped me, with his limited English, and fact that he dropped me in the bus parking lot and um I couldn’t read any signs. I did not go to the paid area to get inside, instead I followed the path and decided where to turn. This temple is along the Bagmati River, which was dry. There I accidentally stumbled upon an Open Air Cremation. I was just following some people walking and saw a large group gathered and wondered what it was and realized that there was a dead body on the ground being prepared to go up to the platform. I couldn’t leave, at that point I am there as respect of this man. It brought back a lot with my own husband who I watched get loaded into the crematorium, so here I stood, in complete raw emotion, surrounded by the locals, watching the grieving woman do her ceremonial duties before they light him on fire. It was my first day here and I was cut wide open. What more can you expect in such a spiritual place.
Trekking 2 nights was my next adventure. This time I had a guide. the whole time and it was inclusive of the motels and meals. I really did not know what to expect. I wasn’t doing any big mountain trekking, just the local hills. The first day was 98% stairs up, it was brutal, I doubted myself. I almost didn’t make the first part, I even almost puked. By far the hardest start I had endured. I did some similar trekking in Malaysia and Borneo and even the volcano in Bali but this was much harder and longer. By the time we got to the first rest night, I was mentally drained and physically ready to lay down for the night. The town itself was just broken buildings left from the earthquake. This motel had already rebuilt and could house people, we ate dinner chatted a bit then went to bed. Early morning departure to Nagacort.
I had to climb a mountain to find this amazing place. I couldn’t walk the last 2 kilometers so the Galaxy hotel sent a motorbike to get me. I arrived and was shown straight to my room. After resting I went down to grab a cold lemon. I saw a guy walking out to the back patio with a guitar and asked if he was going to play. I was invited to come hang out with the crew of guys. After I sat down and met them all, I immediately picked up I was around someone I believed to be on the spectrum, he kept wanting to be near me. His energy was of that nature , he seemed super gentle and aloof, staring at my tattoos, getting scolded by his brother. After a bit I joined my guide for dinner. I learned a lot about the views on Hindu and Buddhism. About the Buddha Chita, the time 2 holy men from each went to India to bathe in the sacred river and how the Buddha could take himself out of his body to wash in the river but the lama couldn’t, Buddha said “let me show you”, so therefore Buddhism is more powerful then Hinduism but they are friends.
After dinner we smoked under the full moon. we went in for music and watch their friend dance. He is the brother of the guy who picked me up. At first didn’t know if this dancing was Nepalese type of routine. But then I realized this kid is inside the music. I felt the spirit and connected vibrations as this young man danced. He felt the music and worked his own routine to each song. . He had posses between songs and he danced like nobody was watching. In that moment I wanted to be as free as he was to express himself. I was smiling ear to ear moving with the music watching him dance. I felt pure joy. As much as I wanted to take my phone out to capture his skills to show you all for likes or shares . I felt, you should have to do that hard ass trek and visit The Galaxy hotel in Nagakort yourself to see. His dancing made the entire 22 Kilometers worth it. Outside the weather is cool and refreshing the trees are rustling in the wind. I’m around these guys that live and work here. It was magical. Seriously the reward earned from my hard ass 2 day journey was this place. I’m even a little bummed I only get to stay here 1 night.
Pokhara was my next stop for a week, Krishna handled all the bookings, even the air. I have been on smaller planes in my life, but as an adult, this was the smallest plane I had been on. The airline even weighs the people during check in. Pokhara is absolutely the better place to spend more time. It is right there, the Annapurna Himalayas are right there overlooking this town, which has a beautiful lake and lots of sightseeing and temples and trekking to be had. I chatted with a Tibetan woman vending some items by the lake, I learned about her struggles and how to get to her village 3 buses away up on the hills. She is considered a refugee in Nepal and is not granted all rights even though she has been there all her life, her family had to flee from Communist China. She spoke great English and knew other languages as well, a required skill for her trade. I also met up with the friends of my friends from Nagacort, who stopped by to have some Momos and pop, smoke and be invited out to their place next time I visit. On my last night
I walked out and found a local spot. It’s a small almost cavernous spot, 4 small 4 tops and one long table. No tables open so I sit at the long table adjacent to 2 of the guys with my back to the bar facing the door. There are 15 local men all seated. No wait staff. The guy next to me helps me get the kitchens attention and I order fried rice and milk tea. More guys come in and fill up the rest of the table seats. Nobody speaks much English.
The guy next to me shared his chicken a small taste and it was very good. He seems to speak a little English. I’m trying to find a comfortable way to mingle. Get to know the locals but they seem to be in conversation. I already know getting food takes forever here in Nepal so I’m in no rush. Just awkward being alone. Do I stare at my phone or stare out the door ?. As a shy isolationist it’s hard for me to be in this position but it’s also a wonderful experience. In most countries I’m fortunate enough for English being a second language but here it’s less known and of all the languages it’s a harder one to understand and try to learn. This is hard to be the loner in the place not understanding the conversation but I’m taking it all in. I just hope for the food and tea to come. Everyone that comes in joins another table. I wish to join a conversation but they usually consist of “where are you from”
The room is small 2 windows with mismatched curtains, there is an oscillating fan. The tables are bright green and blue. The door is bright blue and wide open. Mini Peace flags hang above the door. A traditional basket hangs in the corner, a bar behind me with the kitchen behind the bar. The water I see everyone drinking is actually local wine called roxy , full glasses almost clear liquid. My food comes and the guy I’m seated next to orders me Dahl to go with my rice. A few guys join our table but leave once another one opens up. It’s not odd to see a man with his arm on another’s shoulder. The place is definitely a local dive bar that serves food. I chat briefly with the guys, share a toast with one of the 3 that sat down with me for a minute. The wine flows and conversation is animated. Each table in their own discussion. Food keeps flowing out of the kitchen, traditional Dahl baht. The guys next to me share a plate of cucumbers and carrots. I chat with the guys a bit before I pay my 190 RS ($1.90) and head back to my hotel. So happy I did this, as awkward as it may have been for me, it was truly an experience to remember.
Chitwan, I took a bus from Pokhara to Chitwan, Remember what I said previously about driving in Nepal. Well now lets discuss winding mountain roads with busses and giant hauler trucks going both directions, passing one another like its a game of chicken. I saw 3 wrecks, 1 was 2 busses head on, 1 was a giant truck and small passenger truck, the last was the jackknifed semi truck. Of course I sat up front. As scary as the drive might appear to have been, I was completely calm and enjoying the sightseeing. Upon my arrival at the bus station, my driver for the hotel greeted me there and took me to check in, this is a weekend adventure, I did not know that it was completely scheduled and guided, it was inclusive of meals as well. My guide all 3 days would be Kiran, a young local with tons of knowledge on the fauna and flora, all the bird species and animals in this park. He was so informative even about how to avoid being trampled by a rhino. First we did a nature walk around, I learned about Rinaldo, the wild male elephant that has been impregnating the females the government breeds in captivity, the elephants in this program are used for conservation efforts and are bred and trained at the facility, breeding with the captive males has bred weak and ill elephants. I learned about the Rhinos and the location I was in, on the other side of the mountain range was another protected area and India. Met some of the local guides here at one of the cafes and chatted with them. Really educated me on the area. Learned about the indigenous group called Tharus and how they build their houses. I had a full itinerary daily, with a morning and afternoon trip with Kiran, we went in scooped out tree canoe for an early morning ride to spot some animals, and we sure did, alligators, crocodiles, a rhino in the river bathing and eating on both sides of the river, herds of deer and so many bird species. Kiran was so excited to be sure I was seeing everything he pointed out, he would hand me his binoculars. Long walk in the area adjacent to the river. Jeep Safari spotting many different Rhinos even a baby and momma sleeping more deer and a wild boar. I have never been on something like this and has the plans all dialed in and honestly I felt spoiled and catered too. I even went to meet Kiran after dark leaving the hotel after they served dinner and the guys tried to stop me and warned me that wild animals roam around out there including rhinos. Like holy shit and here I am smoking on the side of the river bank, staring at the lightening storm going off in the distant mountains range that borders India, the fire flies in the close brush, the stars lighting up the sky and animal noises and music from the street behind us in Nepal. My mind was blown. Like am I really here, no really is this really my life. My super short trip had to end so I could get back to work. I head back to Kathmandu on the infamous bus.
Bhaktapur, Another insane 5 hour bus ride to Kathmandu, where Krishna picked me up at the bus stop, was really just a store front on a street and I had no idea where I was, but he did. Another stop at Ammas house before I head to a historical part of town that is a UNESCO protected area of the valley. it is best to stay a few nights to make it worth it. I chose a place called Hotel Nyatopola, It’s like staying in someone’s house, no it is staying in their home. Downstairs is their wood shop and store with the smell of varnish. Next floor is their home with a seating area and bed on the landing area, to the left a curtain which I presume hides another bedroom and to the right their bathroom, next 2 floors offers 3 rental rooms each with their own bathroom. The top floor is kitchen, dining area with cushion floor seating and low table like Japanese style and the terrace. The floors concrete, stairs are narrow steep wood. My room on the 3rd floor had 2 windows that open to the courtyard of brick buildings below. The ceilings low, the open beams even lower. It was very peaceful and quite with hardly a horn to be heard. The owner and her family have been running the place for 6 years. After looking for a place to open their wood carving shop their landlord said they had to take the entire building. With no experience and lots of recommendations from friends and family they started the homestay. Thru the years advice was asked and given to create what they have today. She still asks your opinion of ideas to continue to improve the space. The owners offer breakfast of fried rice, banana pancakes or porridge each morning with tea or coffee. There is opportunity to have dinner for 400 NR. which your eating dinner with the family. I felt like a fly on the wall of this family, if only I understood what the conversations where. The kitchen is basic, the sink is outside, the stove is bottled gas, has tabletop burners, the dishes and pots and pans are on the clean concrete floor. Books line a bookshelf and 2 windows open to the Main Street below. The location allowed me to wonder around the area to eat and sightsee. I did hire a local guide to take me around and educate me on where I was visiting. The 800 NR (I tipped so 1000) was well worth it. Several hours showing me all 4 squares and thru the winding streets and golden door, peacock window, kings old bathing pond and fountain. Was worth the price to get the education and wonderful conversation with my guide.
The entire area is brick and stone streets, brick buildings and temples. Much still being repaired from the 2015 quake. Over 200 mostly women and children perished as they were high atop in the kitchens cooking. There is still a plethora of buildings that are still piles of rubble brick and concrete.
The area has 4 squares, I was situated between pottery square and Nyatopola square with Durbar square and Taumadhi square a short walk. Each open up where temples reside included the tallest Nyatopola temple build in 1702 and still stands as originally built with beautiful hand carved wood doors, windows, eves and support columns. The steep concrete stairs to climb host 10, 5 each side, statues with each one 10 times more powerful then the next. Of course the top one being the god, below that one is the Griffin, below the Lion, below the elephant and bottom one man.
Every inch of this area, which is a world heritage location and requires 1500 NP to enter, the ticket will stay valid as long as your visa is valid. Is a marvelous step back in time to the 17th century. The fountains and wells all across the area have mainly run dry with only several working and sometimes just in the mornings. Locals come fill up their household water jugs as this water is drinkable. Jugs can be typical 5 gallon clear blue water jugs or traditional copper containers and anything in between. Each house also has a big water container on the roof maybe 100 gallons used for the household like showers, washing dishes and the like.
Hawkers selling everything from jewelry to flutes, shops selling wood carvings and clothing line the street in the afternoon the vegetable arrive and you will pass beautiful lush vegetables being sold from the blanket on the ground. Cucumbers, Japanese eggplants, mangoes, bananas, papaya, leafy greens, onions and garlic. Made me wish I had a kitchen to savor the beautiful bounty with.
I did learn that Bhaktapur is known for its king curd yogurt and the shops are all over the place.
Final days in Thamel, Deepok picks me up from Bhaktapur and I head back to Thamel to spend my last few days in Thamel, mostly gift shopping for my kid and grand kids and eating more Dal Bhat. Krishns took me around to go shopping outside of the touristy higher priced places, like buying the Thankas from a school so that the money goes back in to helping these artists continue to learn to become master painters.
Food Porn, local food from Nepal is fantastic and second best to Thai food in my opinion.
Honestly to me the beauty lies in the people and how they live. The vibrant colors against bricks and stones, the sand and dirt glistened and shimmered so beautifully. The people so beautiful and friendly, so open to share with me their culture. What is my takeaway from this visit. Simple life is a happier life but everyone deals with the same struggles. From each persons perspective making money to survive is the common struggles all shared. And the food is fantastic!!!
Find The crew of Ammas House at http://www.ammashome.com/ and my place in Bhaktapur http://www.nyatapolaguesthouse.com/ However I booked thru Booking dot com My guide Krishna can be found at https://www.facebook.com/gardenofhopetreks/ In Chitwan my guide Kiran can be found online at https://www.facebook.com/Chitwan-Wildlife-Eco-Tour-100658997981271/