Preface: If you want to know specifically about Luang Prabang, there are a million sites that will tell you all about the city and what to do while visiting. This is about my experience.
The Germans – I arrived on the Feb 16th and it was pouring rain, thunder and lightning and it was all new and different, the sun had gone down already. With no bearings on anything around me, I was assigned my dorm and there happened to be a German couple in the dorm, they had ridden their bicycle from Germany and shared the many stories about the different countries they passed thru. Kind enough to allow me to join them for dinner and a walk, we ate at what was to become one of the local spots I would frequent most often, good food and good prices. We also walked to the grocery store and they pointed some things out along the walk. My mind was at ease. That night I hung out on the beautiful terrace at the hostel.
Mariane – Unfortunately when I woke up I had slept wrong and had a horrible pain in my shoulder and neck that would persist for days. I honestly even looked up if I could change my flight and go back to Chiang Mai and was a bit despondent. Then came Mariana, her energy was so beautiful and uplifting, she lives in the states but was born and lived 10 years in her home country of Uruguay, She took the long 24 hour bus in from Vietnam after doing a 4 day loop in the mountains on a scooter, so when she invited me to join her on a scooter ride to Kuang Si waterfall, I jumped at the opportunity. We had the most beautiful day and met up with 2 more of her countryman/woman and enjoyed the bear sanctuary, a lovely dip in the water and even Buffalo Ice Cream on the way back to town. Once In town we went and found a secluded spot at a huge Wat across town Phonphao Temple to watch the sunset (avoiding the very crowded Mt Phousy tourist trap, to be done later) This was my turning point in Laos and the adventure over all.
Louise and Emily – Along came Mt Phousy. I had heard a lot about this sunset spot and knew it was crowded but so many people recommended it to me I had to go. Louise and Emily had also wanted to go and I tagged along with them and we had great conversation about the UK and my possible visit to Blackpool, so I know what exactly I will be in for if I go. For a later date. These 2 young ladies where vivacious and it was a pleasure to spend the short time with them before they headed out to Vietnam.
Bicycles thru town – This was a great morning to spend with 3 lovely ladies, Lilly from Austria, Annie, and Sop-e. We rented bikes for a few hours and got our workout cruising thru town and enjoying the sights.
UXO – I enjoyed breakfast and after meeting a new roommate Michelle from Germany, who had mentioned this place I decided to go. I went alone to the UXO museum, a 15 minute walk across town. Here I sat and got educated, watched 3 short movies on how the munitions that the Americans dropped during the Secret War between 1964 and 1973 are still detonating and killing or maiming people today. There are millions of these cluster bombs and other larger bombs still in the ground and when the people dig for their farming or for worms they accidentally hit them and BOOM. There are 2 programs going on by the government here in Laos, most of the places these bombs still exist are in the most impoverished parts of Laos, many small villages who speak different languages. I was told by the locals there are 3 main ethnic groups in Laos, there are the Lao, Hmong and Kampout (although there are 49 ethnic groups recognized, these 3 are a simple break down). The government has both an educational program to go into the villages and teach people not to touch these small metal munitions (kids find them and hit them or throw them not knowing what they are and BOOM), not to build fires on the ground in new spots and not to let your kids use metal detectors and dig. There is also a 10 year plan on locating and detonating the bombs so that farmers can utilize the lands, this is done by searching the area meter by meter with metal detectors. Interestingly enough, you will find Aluminum bracelets and key chain animals made from reclaimed metal from the bombs at the night market. It hurt my soul to know what America did and that it doesn’t get taught in school. I hope the US is at least funding for this bomb search and detonation program.
Garavek – Myths, legends and folktales of Luang Prabang. Since this was my day solo I decided to go to this theater after the UXO museum and learn more about the place I am in. This 1 hour event was in a small room that maybe fit 30 people. I learned about the Khene the instrument is a mouth organ made of bamboo. The stories are about the kingdom of Lansang before it was Laos. I learned about the rivers and mountains and about how the name came about for Mt Phousy. The Lonely Planet best describes this as “Garavek means ‘magical bird’, and this enchanting hour-long show – comprising an old man dressed in tribal wear playing a haunting khene(Lao-style lyre) alongside an animated storyteller (in English) recalling local Lao folk tales and legends”
Big Sister Mouse – I had wanted to volunteer and had yet to, so when I met Annie from Sweden and she also wanted to, we decided to do Big Sister Mouse, which is a school about 15 minutes outside of town, build in 2016 with an initial group of around 20 students, there are now over 150 students attending and they are building more facilities. They teach kids from young primary age thru elementary as well as young adults. Thru flash cards, song, and games we interacted with the kids in a very scheduled itinerary moving from classroom to classroom. It was exhausting but so much fun. The last hour we spent chatting with young adults who are eager to learn English. A traditional lunch was included in the day and was my first time eating the famed River Weed, I liked it better than seaweed to be honest. Annie and I will meet up again in Bali in April. The best part of traveling is the possibility to run into the same people again along the road.
Annie and I, teachers for a day
Stephanie – A new bunk mate that is a French Swiss social worker and stays in Nepal for lengths of time, with am absolutely beautiful soul. My day with Stephanie was across the Mekong for a stroll thru all the temples (Wats). This was a lovely and very hot stroll as the day progressed. I found myself in love with the most ancient Wat (Chomphet Santi Silimoungknoun Vaxi Alraram, atop the mountain and which had no elaborate décor. It was actually slightly crumbling. This spot I had the conversation with my husband, well 1 way conversation but I felt so connected, the insects in the trees singing so loudly here. Stephanie saw that I was going thru it and just her pure calm energy was a blessing to have with me.
Sop-e my Swiss Canadian friend was a blessing, we ate many meals together, shared stories, rode bicycles and walked the night market. I already miss her voice. She was inspiring to listen to with all her experience and adventures at such a young age. I got to hear about her adventures in Sri Lanka and her family. I hope we cross paths again.
End my stay with Sabrina – This Swiss German young lady was a spirit of myself and we hit it off from the first second she walked in. Absolutely bubbling with life ad so happy, she is a bit of a tomboy like myself and enjoys the harder rock music. We spent a few days walking around and eating and chatting. We decided to go volunteer at Big Brother Mouse and spent 2 hours having conversations with groups of locals. This was a spot I wished I came to earlier as now I have invites to visit their local villages when I return. 1 of the gals in my group was a true inspiration. She started by working at 12 and realized that she needs to learn to speak English to not only work but to become a nurse. Her outlook is plain and simple, you keep going, even if things are hard, you have to keep going to learn and then it becomes easy. She is wanting to take her nurse exam but has failed twice, for many they would have given up but her outlook is that she must keep trying or she won’t make it and is saving up to take the exam a 3rd time (cost is 2 million LAK). Her positive outlook and attitude is 100% spot on and I needed to hear that, it relates a lot to my ReHome project and that even though its going to be a hard thing to launch, I have to keep going or it won’t happen at all. Wow exactly when I needed to hear this. We all traded social media with one another to not only continue with their language education (chatting with me in English) but also to visit again one day. I learned from this group of young adults that Luang Prabang is the #1 place the people come from the villages to learn English, due to the amount of tourists and ability to interact with us. Often they stay and study a few years and return back to their villages and other times they continue with their dreams, 1 of the guys is a pizza chef and wants to open a restaurant but we discussed that there is already a saturation of Pizza parlors here and he should find a food that is under serves in the city and be something different and new to attract the tourists. Ya I drop wisdom on them too.
Over all the 2 weeks in Luang Prabang has been a wonderful break from the city and a much needed refill on my intentions and goals. I realize that staying in a hostel is much better as there are so many people to meet and so many solo female travelers to learn from, such a drastic difference than staying holed up in an apartment alone. The conversations and stories from all the people I have met are starting to paint the picture of the type of travel I am searching for. I hope to cross paths with many of the gals I met and to return here and visit the village with the locals that have invited me back.
The food!!!
